Method of lasting shoes



June 21, 1932. E. LA CHAPELLE METHOD OF LASTING SHOES Filed Dec. 31, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 l 1: a u m U. E

June 21, 1932. E. LA CHAPELLE 1,363,752

METHOD OF LASTING SHOES Filed Dec. 31. 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 L: IE! 177126727073 Patented June 21, 1932 UNITED STATES EUcLInI. LA .cHABnLLE, or eaocx'roii, MAssAcHnsEr'rs ..METHOID or .LASTING lsHons Application filed December 31, .1931. Serial No. 584,184.

The term bed as applied toa lasting machine occurring in the specification and in the claims is to vbe interpreted 'to include wipers forlasting one or both ends-ofa shoe.-

The term shoe occurring in the specification and in the claims is to be interpreted to include a shoe or boot partly made.

My novel method relates to the lasting of shoes and more particularly to the lasting of such shoes as of the well known Goodyear welt and McKay types. In-its broadest aspect, however, my methodrelates to the lasting of any and all types or .kinds of shoes adaptable to;-its practice.

The lasting operation upon shoes 'of th Goodyear welt type as nowbeing performed in the shoe factories in the United States, involvesthe use of the" following machines:

(a) Assembling machine;

(6) Pulling-over machine (a) Side lasting machine; and

(cl) Bed lasting machine.

In lasting McKay shoes the bed lasting machine may be omitted as then the toeand the heel may be lasted as well by the side lasting .machine.

The pulling-over operation isperformed prior to lasting the shankpartof'the upper and whether performed by hand or'machine it involves the strainingof the upper lengthwise of the last from the heel to the toeeend by grippers engagin'gand straining the toe-end of the upper and thereafter by grippers-engaging and straining thesidesof theforepartof the'upper. Under such lengthwise strain at the toe endofthe upper, the vamp,and the seam uniting theivampand the quarters of the.

upper, are forced away from thetop of the forepart of the last, back of the toe, andthen extra strain is required in lasting and setting the vamp and the said seam on the top of the last back of the toe,.and with liabilityof irreparable damage to the vamp, its seams or its lining. Under the influence of: the pulling overoperatiomthe vamp and the said seam along the shankpartof the upper are forced away from the bottom of the last so that extra strain 'is alsorequired in lasting .and setting the vamp and'thesaid seamproperly on the last-at the subsequent operation of lasting the shankpart. -Moreover, tothus strain theupvoverpractice, increases these defective condi- :tions.

setting of thevampof the upper on top of the forepart of the last, back ofthetoe, and of the and firmly down onthe last.

upper and the said .seam uniting the vamp ,andthe quarters be well strained andset 'erly lasted.

theobjections noted at the pulling-over op- =e1ation and towards making. possible aibetter, more rapid and easier pulling-over operation and a better lasting operationrat the forepart andat-the-shankpart of a shoethan heretorfore possible, by-eliminating the extra strain now required in lasting the .forepart and the sha nkpart of theupper, by lasting, setting :and itsseams on top of the forepart ofthe preparatory to the theyforepart. 7

:making possible the use of only two machines in the performance of the entire lasting 1 the forepart and of the toe andheel wiping -operationsbyone setting on'a bed lasting machine, by eliminating the. objections noted pulling-over operation to a predetermined extent relatively to the toe-end of the'insoles, whereby 'all'the tips ina given number of ance with the particular swing of the lasts.

per from the heel to the toe-end to the extent called for by the dictates of the best pulling- It is a' well recognized'fact that. the .most diflicult partof lasting resides in the proper setting-of the seam uniting the vamp and the quarters at the throatof thevamp forwardly Itis also a well known fact that unlessthe lengthwise of thezlast from. the: heel tothe ball line of the last, the shankpart cannot be prop- My novel method aimstowardseliminating and-fastening in lasted condition-the upper last,"back of the toe,-andalong. the shankpart, pulling-over operation at "My novel method further aims towards operation and tothis end I provide for the performance of the pulling-over operation at at the ordinary pulling-over operation and also by making it possible to strain uppers having tips lengthwise of the lastslat the shoes will be uniform in 'length andin straightened position on the lasts in. accord- "The bed lasting machine herein shown is length and straightness of tips, and a shoe upper assembled on the last;

Figure 2 represents a lasting machine adapted to strain a shoe upper lengthwise of a last; and the shoe shown in Fig, 1, is mounted thereon with the upper under lengthwise strain and with the shankpart in lasted condition;

Figure 3 represents a front view of the shoe upper straining means, showing the shoe upper engaging portion thereof covered with sole leather;

Figure 4 represents a side elevation of an ordinary bed lasting machine, showing theshoe shown in Fig. 2, thereon, in readiness to be pulled-over at the forepart and wiped at the toe and at the heel; and x 1 Figure 5 is a plan view of the said bed lasting machine shown in Fig. 4, showing the shoe after the performance of the pullingover operation and of the toe and heel wiping operations and showing the shoe entirely lasted. 7 7

Referring further to the drawings, I provide the last 1, and the Goodyear welt shoe insole 2, on which I provide. a demarcation 2. for length and straightness of tips, and which I assemble to the last in the usual manner by the tacks 3, .and I provide the shoe upper 4, which I assemble to the last in the usual manner by the tacks 5. The shoe is then in readiness for the shank lasting operation in accordance with my method for which I provide. a machine adapted to strain the upper lengthwise of the last from the heel to the toe by the straining means embodied therein and which is adapted to engagethe V vamp of the upper at the top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe, and strainfthe upper by frictional contact therewith and thus hold the upper under lengthwise strain during the lasting'of the shankpart. In this conjunction it is to be stated that the toe-end of the upper may be advantageously strained by the operator with hand pincers preparatory to and during the straining movement of the straining means so as to bring about a double straining action upon the upper from the heel to the toe of the last.

The said machine is provided with an adjustable jack-post 6, carrying an adjusting screw 6', whereby it may be adjusted relatively tothe straining means 8, for various sizes of lasts. The last, upon which the insole and the upper are assembled, is mounted t-hereon and by forcing the said 'j'ack post against the spring 7 the forepart of the shoe is passed over the straining means which is then in the dotted position shown in Fig. 2. Then by depressing the treadle 9, against the action of the spring 10, the treadle-rod 11, is raised, forcing the toggle 12, as shown in dotted lines Fig. 2, to the straightened posi tion shown in full lines. The straining means 8, is thus moved toeward of the last in the full line position shown whereby the upper is strained lengthwise of the last from the heel to the toe. In this position the treadleis locked by the spring pressed locking-lever 13, which holds the straining means in strainingposition whereby the upper is held under lengthwise strainpreparatory to and during the shank lasting operation, after which oporation the operator releases the treadle by pressing upon the locking-lever 13. For convenience to the operator, the upper portion 14, of the machine 15, carrying the shoe supporting elements and the straining means, is mounted to rotate about 180 degrees so as to permit the operator to last both sides of the shoe while remaining at one side of the ma-' chine. .;Abutments 16 and 17 are provided to limit the rotation of the portion 14, of the machine by contact with the pin 18. To permit of such rotation of theportion 14, of

the machine, the treadle-rod 11, is positionedin the center of the ball bearing race-way 19, and is provided with, a ball and socket joint 20. i I provide a bed lasting machine 21, shown in Fig. 4, and the shoe 4, as shown partly lasted in Fig. 2, is mountedthereon in readiness for the performance of the pulling over at the forepart and toe and heel wiping operations, 'The operator first sets the hold- .down 22, which is in the form of a flat spring,

over the bottom of the shoe and thenforces the heel-band 23, against the shoe by moving the carriage, on which is mountedthe hold down andthe heel-band, and thus the holddown is forced on the bottom of the shoe in the position'shown in dottedlines 22. shown in Figs. 4 and-5. Then the shoe being thereby-held firmly from movement, the pullingover. operation is performed by hand and then the upper is lasted at the sides of the forep art and the ordinary toe and heel wiping operations are thereafter immediately performed and the shoe is shown entirely lasted in Fig. 5. v

More specifically explained,,while the upper isbeingunderlengthwisestrain by the straining means 8, theoperator proceeds to last'the 'sha'nkpart by means of'ordin'ary hand lasting pincers and in the usual manner'by first pulling and fastening in lasted condition the ends of the counter with;the upper and its lining andthereafter bypulling the upper at each side of therlast just below the Qball-line of the last-by a bottomward diagonally t'oeward pulling movement; and after thus lasting and fastening the upper in lasted herein explained of condition, he next pulls the upper and fastens the same in lasted condition at the ball of the last at both sides of the last. The vamp of the upper and its seams having thus been properly lasted, set and fastened in last ed condition on top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe, the operator proceeds with the lasting of the shankpart between the points already lasted and then, preferably by the aid of a shank-laster a well known tool so-called and which is most efficient for the purpose in both quality of workmanship and rapidity of operation. After the shank lasting operation, the vamp of the upper and its seams having been properly lasted, set and fastened in lasted condition from the heel-end to the ball line of the last, the shoe is thus properly prepared for the pulling-over operation at the forepart which should be performed so as to have the tip seam of the upper in alignment with the demarcation 2' on the insole.

The present day commercial bed lasting machine could be substituted for the bed lasting machine herein shown.

It is a notable fact that the strain upon the upper lasted in accordance with my method is far less severe than heretofore so that only a few tacks are needed to hold the upper in lasted condition and a shoe of the Goodyear welt type, as herein shown, may be passed directly to a welt shoe sewing mechine without need of substituting staples for the lasting tacks. Moreover, due to the mild strain in lasting shoes in accordance with my method, liability of damage to the upper,

its seams or lining is quite remote.

A combination of the machine shown in Fig. 2, and of the machine shown in Fig. 4, might be possible and then the entire lasting operation would be performed by one setting; two separate machines, as once the shank last ing operation has been performed it is believed advisable to inspect the shoe while in natural position-bottom down.

It is to be appreciated that my method is intended to cover and does cover the lasting of the shankpart in whole or in part preparatory to the pulling-over operation at the forepart. For instance, in the event that the upper were lasted only at or just below the ball-line of the last, as in the initial step lasting the shankpart to the pulling-over operation at I then would consider my methavailed of; and my invention and the are to be interpreted in this broad preparatory the forepart, od as claims sense.

A shoe lasted in accordance with my method will retain its original shape better than heretofore once the last has been removed and during the time of wear.

Steam box-toes (fabric material chemically treated and quite rigid) are in general but I prefer to have, as herein shown,

use and now callfor two consecutive steaming operations and the second steaming renders the fabric material of such box-toes crisp and easy to crack or tear at toe wiping and during wear. Only one steaming operation a thick leather left hand. r I

I want it well understood that my invention and this application are to'belimited only by the prior art and as specifically stated in each claim.

glove is usually worn on the Having thus explained the nature of my method and shown the best form of practicingthe same now. to me known, what I claim as new and desire to secure byLetters Patent of the United States is: y

1. That method of lasting shoes which conwiping; In pulling over by hand uppers embodying steam box-toes,

5:170 1s necessary when shoes are lasted 1n accordsists in providing a last, and an insole and a shoe upper assembled on the last; in engaging the vamp of the upper at the top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe,

to strain the upper lengthwise ofthe last from the heel to the toe and thereby properly set the vamp and its seams on top of the forepart ofthe last, back of the toe; in thus straining the upper lengthwise of the last; and in then lasting and fastening in lasted condition the shankpart of the upper, while under lengthwise strain, preparatory to the pulling-over operation at the forepart.

2. That method of lasting shoes which consists inproviding a last and an insole and a shoe upper assembled on the last ;in straining the upper lengthwise of the'last from the heel to the toe to a predetermined extent relatively to the toe-end of the insole; and in then'lasting and fastening in lasted condition the shankpart of the upper, while under lengthwise strain, preparatory to the pulling-over. operation at the forepart.

3. That method of lasting shoes which consists in providing a last, and an insole and a shoe upper assembled on the last; in straining the upper lengthwise of the 'last' from the heel'to the toe to a predetermined extent relatively to the toe-end of in lasting and fastening in lasted condition the shankpart of the upper, while under lengthwise strain, preparatory to the pull ing-over operation at the forepart; and in performing the pulling-over operation at the forepa'rt by re-straining the upper lengthwise of the last to a predetermined extent relatively to the toe-end of the insole.

the insole;

4. That method of lasting shoes which cona shoe upper assembled on the last; in straining the upper lengthwise of the last from the heel to the toe prior to lasting and fastening in lasted condition the toe-end of the upper; and in then lasting and fastening in lasted condition theyshankpart of the upper, while under lengthwise strain, preparatory to the 7 pulling-over operation at the toe-end.

o -5. That method of lasting shoes which consists in providing a last, and an insole and a shoe upper assembled on the last; in engaging the vamp of the upper at the top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe, to strain the upper lengthwise of the last from the heel to the toe and thereby properly set the vamp and its seams on top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe; in engaging the toeend of the upper and in then straining the upv per lengthwise of the last by simultaneously straining the upper at thetoe-end thereof and at the top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe; and in lasting and fastening in lastedcondition the shankpart of the upper, while under lengthwise strain, preparatory to the pulling-over operation at the forepart.

6. That method of lasting shoes which consists in providing a last, and an insole and a shoe upper assembled on the last; in engaging the vamp of the upper at the top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe, to strain the upper lengthwise of the last andtherebyproperly set the vamp and its seams on top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe; in thus straining the upper lengthwise of the last; in lasting and fastening in lasted condition the shankpart of the upper, while under lengthwise strain, preparatory tothe pullingover operation at the forepart; in passing the partly lasted shoe to a bed lasting machine and in then performing the pulling-over oppart in passing the partly lasted shoe to a bed lasting machine and in then performing the pulling-over operation at the forepart and fastening the upper in pulled-over condition; and in then wiping and fastening in wiped condition the remainder of the unlasted uper. Y 8. That method of lasting shoes which consists in providing a last, and an insole and a shoe upper assembled on the last; in engaging the vamp of the upper at the top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe, to strain the upper lengthwise of the last fromthe heel to the toe and thereby properly set the vamp and its seams on top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe; in thus straining the upper lengthwise of the last; in lasting and fastening in lasted condition the shankpart of the upper, atory to the pulling-over operation at the forepart; in passing the partly lasted shoe to while under lengthwise strain, prepara bed lasting machine and in then performing the pulling-over'operation at the forepart by straining the upper-lengthwise of the last to a predetermined extent relatively to the toeend of the insole; and in then wiping and fastening in wiped condition the remainder of the unlasted upper.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

EUCLID I. LA GHAPELLE. 

